Which is the Ultimate Luxury
Steel Sports Watch?
Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Jumbo 15202ST
- vs -
Patek Philippe's Nautilus Jumbo 5711/1A
by Harry SK Tan © March 2009 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
(viewed best at 1400x1050 pixels or higher)
Brief history of two classic
watches
The pedigree of these two famous watches comes not just from its renowned and respected brands but also its designer - Mr Gerald Charles Genta. The prolific watch designer to the most famous and successful Swiss luxury watch brands. Much has been written about Mr Genta and his legacy of sports watch designs but it would be worth mentioning again that in the seventies, he designed IWC's Ingenieur; Cartier's Pasha; Omega's Constellation and Seamaster; Bulgari's 'Bulgari-Bulgari' watch and these two here. All of these mentioned continued to be produced today.
While the description 'iconic' has been overused in the watch world, it is clearly the proper and fair description for these watches that has not just successfully remained in production but continue to enamor new collectors - including those who were not even born yet when these watches were first produced.
The debate between collectors as to which of these two would win in a head to head comparison had been revisited regularly over the years and this article will inevitably add to the mythology already built on these two. These two watches will ultimately be the final short list of choice when we pose this question - Which is the best luxury sports watch for a serious or advanced collector?
Inevitably, such collectors will narrow down the choices by some stringent criteria. Usually it will include a mixture of design, functions or complications, materials and brand - not necessarily in that order. Most collectors will gravitate towards Rolex or any of the current trend of large to super sized watches - many of them bordering on vulgar due to over design.
However, if collectors wish to determine which are the elegant, understated, simple (without added complications or functions) yet featuring a respected movement, well finished, with bracelet tough enough to be worn daily and a design that can withstand the rigors of fashion in the coming decades - will find that the very small handful of watches that is on the short list will include these two.
Both these brands are part of the reputed top three Swiss luxury watch brands which includes Vacheron Constantin (interestingly both AP and PP are still privately owned but VC is owned by the huge luxury conglomerate Richemont SA). VC has its own version of the steel sports watch on bracelet in the form of the Overseas. The Overseas would naturally be on a longer shortlist and is not considered on par with either the Royal Oak or the Nautilus probably due to its lack of equivalent history of being around for 30 years.
Further both these early models designed by Genta has spawned many successful variants for both brands. AP succeeded in not just the variants in the Royal Oak series but also the Royal Oak Offshore series and limited editions. Some would even go as far to say that there are too many variants of the Royal Oak Offshore resulting it being perceived as a cash cow for AP rather than model series managed with care so that it is neither over sold nor over supplied. However AP continues to produce the original Royal Oak Jumbos in low production numbers. Patek as well has its variants of the Nautilus in different sizes and guises as well as inspiring the creation of the Aquanaut series.
The Case
For some collectors, its all about the design, others its all about the in-house movement and the then there are the collectors that just buy the brand. Admittedly I thought that these models were originally boring and out of date. The perception was borne purely out of images and photos. Having had the opportunity to inspect and then try on these two watches, my view has completely changed. It may be that my taste has changed over time but now being able to discern more about what is a great watch from merely good, both the Royal Oak and Nautilus has qualities serious collectors want in bags full.
These two watches photographed here are recent editions of a design that has withstood the test of time and has remain true to its original unchanged since the seventies - the Royal Oak was designed in 1970 and the Nautilus in 1974. Although the Royal Oak came a few years before the Nautilus but both are generally considered to be in the same generation. It is believed that Genta adapted the inspiration he found from the gun turrets on H.M.S. Royal Oak - hence the name. However, other sources report that Genta found inspiration from a deep sea diving helmet he saw during one of his walks along the shore of Lake Geneva. The eight screws on the helmet gave him the key to his design. Whichever is the true story, its undeniable that the Royal Oak is a distinctive design that continue to unique even today. There may have been a few efforts to copy the design but none had been able somehow to convey or capture the overall balance and harmony of the case, bezel, dial and bracelet.
As for the Nautilus, it was believed that the inspiration was from the port holes of ships that are essentially round metal windows with a huge single hinge. He fashioned the Nautilus bezel and featured a case that mimicked the large hinge on both the left and right of the dial of the watch.
The overall dimensions of the Nautilus are 43mm in diameter and 8.6mm thick and for the Royal Oak, the diameter is 39mm at 8mm thick. Wearing the Royal Oak on the wrist is a surreal experience for the first time. Having worn so many modern sports watches that are usually tall, the Royal Oak feels wonderful and deserves its claim to be the thinnest sports watch in the world. The octagon bezel is not a flat straight eight sided bezel. In fact, its eight gently curved sides. Together with the white gold hexagon screws the case design still looks dramatic yet unique. The Nautilus on the other hand - while still very distinctive has a simple large bezel without any special feature apart from its squarish looking round shape (or round looking square shape?). The design key that makes the Nautilus special is the appendages on both the left and right of the dial. This is supposed to be the representation of a port hole's hinges. Unfortunately these extensions or appendages serves to do nothing apart from pure design affectation. Unlike the Royal Oak, the screws are functional in keeping the bezels together and to create the water tight seal against moisture.
- Advantage Royal Oak - AP 1:0 PP
The Crown
The Royal Oak has a simple signed crown that takes its design from the hexagonal screws on the bezel. The smooth edges of the crown makes for a comfortable watch on the wrist without any sharp edges of this large watch putting pressure on the skin. Unfortunately the Royal Oak does not feature a screw in crown like the Nautilus. Again, this is found in the original design and as such is water resistant to only 50m. The Nautilus on the other hand is capable of 120m due to its screw in crown. Aesthetically, between the two watches, even though the Nautilus has a simple and more familiar crown, it looks better because it sits into the case giving it a perception of having some protection afforded to it.
- Advantage Nautilus - AP 1:1 PP
The Dial
The Royal Oak differs from the Nautilus in one distinct detail. It lacks a second hand. This is a design detail with the famed JLC920 Caliber. This continues to its current edition. The Nautilus on the other hand uses a different caliber that allows for a centre second hand. Oddly enough this is one of the polarising factors between collectors. Some would prefer to see the movement of the second hand but the others would prefer the Royal Oak without as it keeps the dial cleaner and it represents what all serious collectors want - the JLC930 caliber.
Both feature applied markers and if you look closely, both watch features the same hour and minute hand designs with curved ends. The Nautilus hands though are just marginally wider. The Royal Oak has arabic numeral markers in 5 minute intervals on the edge of the dial. The Nautilus however simply has the white dot markers for the minutes.
The Royal Oak has its trademark latticed or box emboss while the Nautilus the horizontal embossed bars. Both are very distinctive and allows for collectors to identify them very readily from a reasonable distance. The advantage of such undulating surfaces on the dial is that in addition to it being a design feature to an otherwise simple looking watch, it prevents glaring reflections when reading the time in bright sunlight. Accordingly, both dials are highly legible.
- All Even - AP 2:2 PP
The Movement
The movement is the heart of the watch - and what a heart these two has. In their original guise both was considered by many to have one of the best and most refined automatic movement ever made - the JLC920 caliber. The AP Royal Oak originally was fitted with the famed JLC 920 ultra thin movement but it has since acquired the rights and the equipment to manufacture the same movement and renamed it as the ultra thin Caliber 2120 series. At only 3.05mm thick, this movement represents one of the thinnest full rotor auto-wind movement ever created. AP was one of the main partners in developing this caliber with JLC and acquired the sole rights over this movement when JLC was sold to Richemont. The original Nautilus also used the same JLC caliber but since rights transfer of the caliber to AP, Patek uses the Caliber 324SC for the current Nautilus. This new movement in the Nautilus is thicker (and some say inferior) to the JLC920.
Both watches are finished to a level one would expect from these brands and at this price point. Close inspection will show that Bridges are decorated with hand-applied Cotes de Geneve, and the edges of the bridges have been gently rounded using the technique of anglage. The Royal Oak features a beautiful skeletonised rotor with a 21K gold segment for added mass. The Nautilus on the other hand features a more commonly seen simple solid gold rotor with the calatrava cross engraved.
- Advantage Royal Oak - AP 3:2 PP
The Bracelet & Clasp
Unlike many of today's modern sports watches on bracelets, both feature a bracelet that tapers towards the deployant clasp. Unknown to many collectors, such a feature dramatically increases the cost of manufacturing the bracelet (bracelets with the same width at the lugs and clasp need only one specification for each link).
The Royal Oak features a discernibly thinner bracelet than the Nautilus. The key feature of the bracelet is the double connecting links between bracelet link. While the front edge of the bracelet is satin finished, closer inspection will show that all the hidden edges of the bracelet and links feature high polish finish. A small detail but worthy of mention. The clasp is a single deployant with the fold sitting on one side of the buckle. The locking mechanism is a simple spring tongue that holds the clasp together. The Royal Oak enjoys a great sense of presence with this bracelet on this case design. The slim bracelet gives it a sense of elegance as opposed to many thicker designs found in other sports watches (including its younger stable mate the Royal Oak 15300 with the cal3120).
The Nautilus bracelet features a central connecting link which is used as a contrast to the rest of the bracelet because of its high polish. This design seems quite dated in today's offerings. Variants of this design can be seen on many models and as such makes the bracelet indistinct. However, the Nautilus has a butterfly deployant which are usually more comfortable to wear than the single deployant. As such overall, both bracelets are comfortable but I would put the Nautilus slightly ahead in terms of comfort.
- All Even -l AP 4:3 PP
Conclusion
Final Score - Royal Oak 4:3 Nautilus. While the Royal Oak outscores the Nautilus, its not as clear cut as the number suggests. I would consider the margin of advantage to be much thinner as the Nautilus still has some strengths not measured here - e.g. brand equity or brand recognition.
Both the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo and the Patek Philippe Nautilus Jumbo are retailing list at approximately 15000 Euros or 29,000 SGD. While they are similarly priced at retail, there are available dealer discounts for the Royal Oak. Retail discounts for Patek are never heard of - not in the least with the Nautilus where in some parts of the world, retailers even sell them at a premium above list. Notwithstanding the considerable price differential on the street, these two are essentially targeted at the same market space and in most aspects are considered as fair competitors.
Unfortunately for AP, due to its affection for creating huge numbers of limited editions of its Royal Oak Offshore series, it has in my opinion lost much of the attraction from serious collectors who gravitate towards conservative classical designs and a brand with demeanor of their social standing. As a result many collectors of high end luxury will automatically prefer Patek and the Nautilus for its image. On the other hand, these popular Offshore models have brought a lot of attention for the whole of the Royal Oak line.
What is the secret of the longevity of these two watches? I suspect that it has to do with a lot of factors mentioned here but primarily with the design of both watches reflecting the classical trick of creating something which has complicated details made to look simple. In the Royal Oak, its the eight sided bezel with hexagonal screws and a complicated bracelet. For the Nautilus, its the porthole hinges with a nice inlaid crown.
However having to choose between these two watches and ignoring the bias and prejudices mentioned, the Royal Oak is still able to lay claim to be the true original holding on to all the facets of its first design has truly been unchanged. Whether AP or PP will choose to continue manufacture these watches will remain to be seen but having been so successful over the past three decades, it is quite certain that they will continue to be treasured by the owners and desired by new collectors.
Harry SK Tan
March 2009